For your holiday, choose the sparkling wine whose grower is often described as the very best around. That would be Vilmart. Laurent Champs maintains that he makes wine first, and champagne second-seems to be the natural order of things. This rationale definitely seems to show in his champagnes. Two thirds Chardonnay to one-third Pinot Noir, all wood-aged, gives this brut an earthy, Burgundian flavor. The essential fragrance of Grand Cellier is lobster stock, saffron and brioche, with a flowery and fruity palate.